- Naa hydraulic draft control connecting link cracked#
- Naa hydraulic draft control connecting link manuals#
- Naa hydraulic draft control connecting link manual#
- Naa hydraulic draft control connecting link pro#
Naa hydraulic draft control connecting link manuals#
According to one of my manuals a quick test is to raise a load and switch from position control to draft mode and look for less that 2" of difference at the hitch.
Naa hydraulic draft control connecting link pro#
A pricey one, too.īy now everything I had done had made the lift capable of handling a bush hog and rear blade, but a partially filled rear scoop was too much.Īt this point I must admit that I had never adjusted the internal linkages, I guess I thought the local pro had, but now I had to make sure. The CV did seem to be a quite loose fit, so it became the prime suspect. Took it apart again and looked at the check valve and it's seat and the control valve. Looked in through the side cover with a heavy load hanging and I see big stream coming from the baffle plate area. Took it apart again and found that the backpressure valve was stuck partially open. He replaced the unloader valve O'ring, honed the lift cylinder, and replaced the cylinder to cover gaskets and said everything looked good. So I took it apart again, eyeballed it and took it to a local pro to see if he could find what I was missing.
Naa hydraulic draft control connecting link cracked#
The first time I took things apart I found a cracked lift piston missing it's O'ring. I do have a vane pump, but I never suspected that as the problem, that turned out to be a good hunch. The problem was a weak lift especially when hot. Today is a good day, after owning this tractor for 10 years, and trying to fix a hydraulic issue for the last two I am done. Posted by Gene in Howell on Apat 13:19:03 : OK, now is the time for all the Nay Sayers to unload.NAA hydraulics. Cleaned the dirt and rust out of the bottom of the sump, filled sump with oil and assembled. Make sure this pin will come in contact with the piston, stopping it from coming all the way out the cylinder. The lever that is connected to the turn buckle has a cam pin too. Loosen the acorn nut on the tappet bolt, and adjust the tappet bolt to get the control rod in the neutral position, 1/4 inch.īefore you put it together, make sure all your adjusting levers line up. Next move your control lever to within an inch of the top. Keep in mind this adjustment will allow your arms to drop when you move the control lever down. Make sure the turn buckle ends up looking straight with the lever that moves it and both ends of the turn buckle are in the up position, otherwise you may get some binding. Adjust that rod for a 1/4 inch space on the control rod. There is a rod that moves the control rod that looks like a turn buckle. Put your control lever within an inch of the lowest position, and move the lift arms to the lowest position. That way, I'll have a bearing to rub on the cam.īack to the adjusting procedure that worked for me. If there is a next time for me, I'll take a 5/8 inch bolt, spin a part of it down to 1/2 inch to put a brass bushing on for a bearing, then turn the other end down to fit the 5/16 hole. By the way, you can remove the sump fill plug and see the cam follower pin, so it's no big deal to me. The 1/2 in pin I make was just enough to compensate for all the cam wear. So what, do you want a harder cam follower pin to do more damage to the cam? Either way, there is going to be wear. Some of the boys here never fail to gave me heck for the things I do, They said the #2 wasn't hard enough. Had to add a washer to push the entire controls over so the cam follower would be closer to the cam.īecause of all the wear, I took a 1/2 inch #2 bolt and spun one end down to fit the 5/16 inch hole the cam follower pin is pressed in. I had to use shim stock to tighten up some of them. Look at all the parts and you will find they don't fit together very well. This will allow you to drive the pin out and replace it. My guess is you may want to replace the cam follower pin. This will allow you to take all your internal control levers out. Anything more than 1/4 inch will cause the arms to drop.īefore you make any adjustments, remove your control arm, the external lever you move up and down. Anything less than 1/4 inch will cause the piston to come out, lift arms go up. When the control rod is 1/4 inch out you are in the neutral position, you stop lifting.
![naa hydraulic draft control connecting link naa hydraulic draft control connecting link](https://www.waltstractors.com/acatalog/8n681.jpg)
First the only tool you need is a 1/4 inch square piece of metal. Went to the Ford archives and found where someone made their own adjustment procedure.
![naa hydraulic draft control connecting link naa hydraulic draft control connecting link](https://www.waltstractors.com/acatalog/jublines1.jpg)
I couldn't get my controls to even come close to using the manual's procedure. I recently posted on the ford sight, where I made a 1/2 cam follower, 12-14-2011, because you will find your cam and pin have almost 60 years of wear. I could care less if the draft position works, because I don't have any plans to plow with my Jub. However in the real world, it took me 4 attempts to get my adjustments to where they would work in the implement position only.
Naa hydraulic draft control connecting link manual#
IN an ideal world, when the tractor is new, the manual will work. Re: NAA Lift Adjustment in reply to newlife, 01-08-2012 06:43:12